My mother is the one in the middle in the front line, surrounded by parents, sisters and brother (two still to come).
24.2.09
I'm off for a week or so...
My mother is the one in the middle in the front line, surrounded by parents, sisters and brother (two still to come).
23.2.09
Le Bon Marché
The square is named after Aristide and Marguerite Boucicaut who in 1852 launched what may obviously be considered as the first real department store in the world. It kept the name “Le Bon Marché” - which could mean “cheapness”, or maybe rather should be interpreted as the “good bargain”? - from a previous shop founded in 1838 in which they had been associated for a few years. It was a great success and in 1869 the present large main building was launched, opening in the early 1870’s. The architect (Louis-Charles Boileau) asked for help by Gustave Eiffel for the structure of the building. (The escalators have of course been added later, designed by Andrée Putman.)
The success story continued. The employees were obviously well treated with a lot of social advantages, not so common those days. Other adjacent buildings were added. Today, this is probably the most luxury oriented department store in Paris. This is the place you rather would go if you want something of a certain standard. You find also a very nice bookshop and what I believe must be the food store with the largest assortment in Paris. I checked the olive oils; there were some 50 brands to choose from.
Since 1984, Le Bon Marché belongs to the LMVH group (Bernard Arnault) and is definitely now a luxury department store, where you of course can buy what you “need” of the other brands of the group (Louis Vuitton, Loewe, Kenzo, Givenchy, Marc Jacobs, Dior Perfumes, Guerlain, Chaumet, TAG Heuer...). The show window decoration is also quite special.One of the adjacent buildings, originally used as warehouse by “Le Bon Marché” and obviously also with Eiffel involved in the design, is today partly occupied by The Conran Shop, specialising in exclusive modern furniture and household goods.
In 1910, Mrs. Boucicaut (the husband died in 1877) had a big hotel, Lutetia, built on the other side of the square to accommodate travelling clients. This is still the only “palace” on the left bank. Considering the standard of the hotel, the customers did already then not all go to “Le Bon Marché” to buy cheap stuff.
In the immediate neighbourhood, there are some other interesting buildings including the “Missions Etrangères” (Foreign Missions) and the last home of Chateaubriand.
20.2.09
A few traces... addendum
David told me that the biggest traces of bombing can be found on a bank building fairly close to the Opéra Garnier (crossing Rue du 4 Septembre – Rue de Choiseul), so I went there to take some photos. He was right. This bombing took obviously place, again during WWI, January 30, 1918, and created serious damage and casualties around the city.
I wish you a nice weekend!
18.2.09
Saint Martin des Champs - Art et Métiers
16.2.09
No post today....
15.2.09
Mid-month theme - subways
You can find today’s and some related posts by using the following links:
New York City Daily Blog – Stockholm by pixels – Budapest by Andrea Gerak – Fresh Eyes on London – Peter’s Paris.
(You can also find some other related older posts on my previous blog via this link: PHO.)
This is a quite different Paris métro station, “Arts et Métiers”. It was designed by the Belgian illustrator François Schuiten in 1994 to mark the bicentury of the Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers (National Conservatory of Arts and Crafts) and its museum which are served by this station. It‘s intended to remind about Jules Verne, completely covered by copper – including the dust-bins. Through a number of port-holes you can see models of different technical inventions, which you can study in full size in the museum just above the station (which I will revert on soon).
Please note that “Arts et Métiers” is served by two lines, no. 3 and no. 11. To see this decoration you must use line 11 (Châtelet-Mairie des Lilas), which was created quite late – in 1935 – partly in order to replace a cable-car service (like in San Francisco) between Place de la République and the hills of Belleville.
13.2.09
Northern Marais
I have already made posts about the central parts of the Marais including Place des Vosges, of the St.Paul area and more recently about what you find just behind the Paris Town Hall. There are also things to see north of the Picasso Museum, which is housed in an old 17th century “hôtel particulier” since 1985 and which at the moment has a Daniel Buren (famous for his Columns at Palais Royal) exposition including an enormous mirror, doubling – or cutting ? – the surface of the courtyard.
There are a lot of landmarks if you really start to look closely, but first I would rather talk about a general feeling. This northern part of the Marais is much less visited and somehow gives a more authentic atmosphere. As you can see, there are a lot of old narrow streets, cobble stones, backyards (you have to push the door gates), cafés... and also a real barber shop, not mentioning a small message to celebrate February 14th.
Some special words about a few places (I will be back with more one day):
The Saint-Nicolas-des-Champs Church was originally part of the Abbey of Saint-Martin-des-Champs (to which I will soon revert). With 12th century origins, the present church dates from 1420 with modifications during the 16th and 17th century. As most other churches, it suffered from the Revolution and lost a great deal of its decoration, but quite a bit was saved. Especially the retable from 1629 is remarkable and there are a number of paintings by artists like Claude Vignon, Georges Lallement.... The problem, like in many churches, is that they are in the dark and not easy to see, nor to photograph.
The Saint-Denys-du-Saint-Sacrement Church is more recent, from 1835. It replaced a Benedictine chapel. It may especially be worth a visit for a mural painting by Delacroix from the 1840’s, the “Deposition of the Cross”, also referred to as the Pieta.
Le Marché des Enfants Rouges has an odd name which can be translated as the Market of the Red Children. It dates from 1615 and is actually the oldest still existing covered market in Paris. The name has its origins in a nearby orphanage, created in 1534 and which remained until the 18th century. The children wore red uniforms. It’s a modest market, space wise, and the entrances are hardly visible. It was threatened to be demolished a few years ago, but is now obviously saved. You cannot only buy food here, but there are also a number of small bars and bistrots. It’s worth a visit for its atmosphere (39, rue de Bretagne).
A building on rue Volta has sometimes been claimed to be the oldest still remaining in Paris. This seems now not to be true, but I believe it’s still under discussion whether it dates from the 13th, 14th ... or the 17th century. Most sources claim that the oldest one is the Nicolas Flamel buiding (see previous post). Just round the corner is Rue au Maire, which obviously was the first little China Town in Paris, since then followed by several others, more important.
11.2.09
The Temple
On the plans I show here, you can see what the Temple looked like in 1739 (from the Turgot plan), including church, chapel, hospital.... Some special attention is of course drawn to the Tour du Temple (the Temple Tower, the “Grosse Tour”, “Grosse Tower”, “Grande Tour”) which dates from 1306. It served immediately partly as prison, more and more with the time. It’s especially known for having been the prison of the Royal family after the Revolution. Louis XVI left directly from here to the guillotine (see previous posts); Marie-Antoinette was transferred to the Conciergerie (see previous post) for a short while, before it was her turn.... Compared to the 1739 plan, some modifications had already taken place when the Royal Family arrived in 1792. Obviously some of the walls were already demolished. The “Grosse Tour”, which had its place just behind the park corner you can see on the top picture (traces have been painted in the street just behind - in front of the local 3rd arrondissement Town Hall), was destroyed in 1808, and soon also most of the other buildings. The home of the “Grand Prior” which in the meantime had been used as home of members or “friends” of the Royal family (the young Mozart was invited to play here) remained until the middle of the 19th century and the Haussmann modifications.
What remains than today of the Temple?
Hardly anything. The doors of the “Grosse Tour” can be found at the Château de Vincennes (photo from Wikipedia) and a wall corner tower remains in the yard, between some apartment buildings which you cannot access (unless living there or being invited of course). (See plan above.)
The doors of the gate to a house close by (1 rue Saint-Claude) are said to come from the “Grand Prior” building. (It happens also to be the place where an impostor, Joseph Balsamo, “Count of Cagliostro”, lived in the 1780’s. He was heavily involved in an affair called the “Collier de la Reine” (Queen’s Necklace).