Showing posts with label Invalides. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Invalides. Show all posts

26.3.12

More about the "Invalides" - bis



As I stated in my previous post about the “Invalides”, its history is much dominated by Louis XIV, who decided on its construction, and by Napoleon … and I indicated that I would revert to the Napoleon part.

As I already I mentioned in the previous post, Napoleon was of course guilty of creating a high number of invalids, wounded soldiers, who were taken care of here and he paid regular visits to the "Invalides" to see them.

Napoleon is present in the major courtyard by the statue which once stood on top of the Vendôme Column (see previous post). In the meantime it had spent a few years on the bottom of the Seine River.

As we know, Napoleon spent his last years (1815-21) on the Saint Helena Island in the middle of the South Atlantic Ocean, where he was also interred. Louis Philippe (French King 1830-48) decided in 1840 that his remains should be brought back to Paris. Arriving by a sailing vessel to Cherbourg, the coffin was transferred to a steamer, then again to a smaller vessel and brought on the Seine to Courbevoie, a Paris suburb, and finally in great pomp to the Invalides, December 15, 1840. (The Saint Helena tomb can now be seen in an inner courtyard at the Invalides.)


It took until 1861, until his final place of rest, as we can see it today, designed by Ludivico Visconti (the film director was of the same family), was ready. A lower level was created in what used to be the Royal Chapel, under the dome (see again previous post). Some other imminent war personalities - Foch, Vauban... have their tombs on the upper level.



On the entrance portal leading down to the tomb you can read “I wish that my ashes lie on the banks of the Seine, amidst the French people that I so loved”. 


The tomb is in red porphyry, on a granite base and circled by a crown of laurels and inscriptions.


You can down there also find another statue of Napoleon and, in front of it, the tomb of his son, Napoleon II, who died at the age of 21 and “reigned” for all together two weeks – in 1814 and 1815 – at the age of three or four. His ashes were brought here 100 years after those of his father, in 1940 … on the order of Hitler.


Talking about the son Napoleon II; his mother was Marie-Louise of Austria, Napoleon’s second wife. Napoleon never had any children with his first wife, Josephine…, but he had – at least – two, acknowledged, illegitimate sons, one with a short time mistress (Eléonore Denuelle de la Plaigne), Charles Léon, or Count Léon (1806-81) and one with a long-time beloved mistress, Marie Walewska, of whom there is a painting in one of the Invalides rooms. Their son, Alexandre Walewski (1810-68) later became the French Minister  of Foreign Affairs and Minister of State. He in his turn had an illegitimate, but again recognized, son with a famous actress, also called Alexandre, who in his turn had a son, André Walewski (1871-1954). André created a taxi company in 1905, which now is the leading Paris taxi company, known as G7, and he and his taxis played an important role in the “Taxis de la Marne” operation, when Paris’ taxis transported troops from Paris to the war front in 1914 (WWI). (I included a "love letter" from Napoleon to Marie.)
Today, the "Invalides" is occupied by a war museum, by different defense related administrations ... and still by about hundred wounded or retired soldiers. 
   

22.3.12

More about the "Invalides".



Sometimes I feel a need to add something about places I have already posted about. This is the case with the Invalides on which I made a post some four years ago.




The history of the place is very much dominated by Louis XIV, who decided to build it, and by Napoleon who came here regularly (and was quite directly responsible for the high number of occupants during a couple of years) and has his tomb here. We can find their monograms on the impressive marble floor.


As I have still rather much to say about the place, I will make two posts, the first one concentrating on the Louis XIV part.

First something about the building as such: It was thus built under Louis XIV’s reign as a hospital and a home for aged and unwell soldiers (with space for 4.000 of them). It was finished in 1676, including a chapel for the soldiers, known as “Saint Louis des Invalides”. A "Royal Chapel", under the dome, was finished only in 1708.


Other architects were involved, but there is always a special mention for Jules-Hardouin Mansart (also very present at Versailles, creator of Place Vendôme, Place des Victoires, the SaintRoch Church… and a number of other edifices), who designed the Royal Chapel.

One amazing feature, which you can't imagine when you just look up on it, concerns the dome of the "Royal Chapel". It can be explained by a model; the upper levels of windows cannot be seen - they are just there to give light to the dome.



Another “detail”: One of the superintendents of the works was Louvois (François Michel Le Tellier de Louvois), an eminent minister of Louis XIV, who died before the end of the works (in 1691). He wanted to be buried at the Invalides, but some intrigues made that finally he wasn’t. But… somehow his presence was arranged. One of the bull’s eyes shows a wolf… and the pronunciation in French of Louvois and “loup voit”, meaning “wolf sees” is the same.


It’s normal to find the presence of Louis XIV, the “Sun King” emblem can be seen all over the place. I had the pleasure to get into one of the more prestigious rooms, with a splendid view through the windows. One version of the perhaps most well-known painting of the King (other versions at the Louvre, at Versailles…) by Hyacinthe Rigaud (1701) could be seen on one of the walls.


Some views of the "Saint Louis Chapel". I will show more from the "Royal Chapel" in a next post, as it's now where you can find Napoleon's tomb. 


Under the chapel  you can find (but not easy to visit) the “Caveau des Gouverneurs”. This is the place where most of the military governors of the Invalides and a number of prominent militaries are buried. … and also Rouget de Lisle, who wrote the “Marseillaise”.


There are several sun-dials around; this is perhaps the more spectacular one. I will not try to explain exactly how to read it, only that it’s split in two, one for the morning hours (from 1770) - “Sub umbra quiescent” (Under the shade they rest) and one for the afternoon hours (from 1785) – “Sub luce gaudent” (Under the light they rejoice.) Did people get up late?


There will thus be a second post, more related to Napoleon.