Sometimes I
feel a need to add something about places I have already posted about. This is
the case with the Invalides on which I made a post some four years ago.
The history
of the place is very much dominated by Louis XIV, who decided to build it, and
by Napoleon who came here regularly (and was quite directly responsible for the
high number of occupants during a couple of years) and has his tomb here. We can find their monograms
on the impressive marble floor.
As I have still
rather much to say about the place, I will make two posts, the first one
concentrating on the Louis XIV part.
First
something about the building as such: It was thus built under Louis XIV’s reign
as a hospital and a home for aged and unwell soldiers (with space for 4.000 of
them). It was finished in 1676, including a chapel for the soldiers, known as
“Saint Louis des Invalides”. A "Royal Chapel", under the dome, was finished only
in 1708.
Other architects were involved, but there is always a special mention for Jules-Hardouin Mansart (also very
present at Versailles, creator of Place Vendôme, Place des Victoires, the SaintRoch Church… and a number of other edifices), who designed the Royal Chapel.
One amazing
feature, which you can't imagine when you just look up on it, concerns the dome of the "Royal Chapel". It can be explained by a model; the upper
levels of windows cannot be seen - they are just there to give light to the dome.
Another “detail”:
One of the superintendents of the works was Louvois (François Michel Le Tellier
de Louvois), an eminent minister of Louis XIV, who died before the end of the
works (in 1691). He wanted to be buried at the Invalides, but some intrigues
made that finally he wasn’t. But… somehow his presence was arranged. One of the
bull’s eyes shows a wolf… and the pronunciation in French of Louvois and “loup
voit”, meaning “wolf sees” is the same.
It’s normal to find the presence of Louis XIV, the “Sun King” emblem can be seen all
over the place. I had the pleasure to get into one of the more prestigious
rooms, with a splendid view through the windows. One version of the perhaps
most well-known painting of the King (other versions at the Louvre, at
Versailles…) by Hyacinthe Rigaud (1701) could be seen on one of the walls.
Some views
of the "Saint Louis Chapel". I will show more from the "Royal Chapel" in a next post, as it's now where you can find Napoleon's tomb.
Under the
chapel you can find (but not easy to
visit) the “Caveau des Gouverneurs”. This is the place where most of the
military governors of the Invalides and a number of prominent militaries are
buried. … and also Rouget de Lisle, who wrote the “Marseillaise”.
There are
several sun-dials around; this is perhaps the more spectacular one. I will not
try to explain exactly how to read it, only that it’s split in two, one for the
morning hours (from 1770) - “Sub umbra quiescent” (Under the shade they rest) and one for the afternoon hours (from 1785) – “Sub luce gaudent” (Under the light they
rejoice.) Did people get up late?
There will thus be a second post, more related to Napoleon.
18 comments:
Well just put this on my "famous list" Peter! I must assume the rouge bows on the shoes you noted were for my future Paris Rouge series! :)
V
Tu as oublié de nous montrer la partie du cadran solaire qui donne l'heure pendant la nuit.
Bien conserve ce modillon de loup! Hommage donc a Louvois.
magnifique, l'un des plus beaux monuments de Paris
Do you know why Louis xiv has got red heels? This http://www.histoire-en-ligne.com/spip.php?article994 might interest you.Anne
Merci pour ce magistral cours d'histoire et pour la visite.
Really incredible details. I have always loved this building and area. You do get special entree into privates areas! Your stature is established and growing.
Je ne sais pas si je vais retenir tout ça....
Now I know why the red heel of a male shoe was a prerogative of the aristocracy...
When Thomas Jefferson came back from France his friends and fellow signers of the American Independence could not believe their eyes when they saw him for the first time.
The still young and very handsome former Ambassador wore make up, was richly dressed in the latest style and his black patent leather shoes had RED heels!!!
John Adams, always outspoken asked him how he dared dress like that in his own country of all places. Such spectacle was never seen before in that young Republic...
On the other hand because they loved him they were relieved to see the former inconsolable widower looking like such a happy dandy...
Fantastic photos!
Fantastic post!
Thank you, Peter.
Maria O. Russell
I'm thanking my notes, it's a place that I need to visit someday!
Thanks for all information and these adorable pictures!
Léia
WONDERFUL!!! I can understand why you would come back for another post, Peter. What a very beautiful building, with so much fascinating history. If I ever get to Paris, this is a definite must-see.
I have meant to eat at the Foyer de la Madeleine served by volunteer ladies but was never there at the right time as it closes at 14 h. I enjoyed your post on the Invalides. I went there years, no, decades ago and don’t remember it well. Plus I never saw all the beautiful places you show.
Thank you Peter ! Beautiful pictures on the dome's interiors paintings.
Always a delight to re-visit Paris monuments. Aren't you glad that red heels and bows are no longer the fashion for men! Enjoyed the interesting story about Louvois.
Good job!
Toutes les salles doivent être réouvertes maintenant, il faut que j'y retourne aussi
Bises
Your blog is too tempting for us to want to visit Paris over and over again.
It is equally tempting for my hubby when Air France is offering $998 ticket to Paris and we are stuck coz the dates of travelling is not ideal at the moment for me and the girls ;(
We love Paris too much :D
Fantastic photos! Great post as usual, Peter.
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