Restoration...

I already wrote about the Madeleine Church, e.g. here and here, but walking by the other day I was struck by the ongoing cleaning and renovation job and thought I must have a new look. The cleaning really makes you observe “details” that you normally just may neglect, see top picture.

Here we have some views of the “before”, “during” and “after” cleaning.

The Madeleine Church has a rather curious history… In 1753 Louis XV decided to have a church built here, ten years later the works commenced. The original architect died in 1777, was replaced … However, the church was not yet ready, when the Revolution of 1789 stopped it all – with ideas to transform the future building to a “Temple of the Revolution”. Then Napoleon had the idea to create a temple dedicated to the glory of his army and there were other ideas about the use… library, ballroom, bank, Court…

When the royalty was back in power in 1815, Louis XVIII decided that the building after all was going to be a church, dedicated to Mary Magdalene – we can see her kneeling here. The works continued slowly… and as late as 1837, there were even some plans to use the building for a future railway station. Finally, in 1842 the building was consecrated as a church.

There are some 30 or 40 Saints around the church. So far only Saint Denis seems to have been cleaned.

The flowers on the steps in front of the Church have been there now for a couple of years. A place for a nice relaxing moment on a sunny day – with a nice view.

The front doors are worth a closer look, inspired by the Florence Baptistery and Ghiberti. They are by a rather unknown Henri de Triqueti (1804-1874) who also decorated a fantastic Albert Memorial Chapel at Windsor.

A few shots from the interior. The Cavaillé-Coll organ has been there since 1845 and has had some famous titular organists like Camille Saint-Saëns (between 1858-77) and Gabriel Fauré (between 1896-1905).

What is really quite special is the fresco in the nave from 1838 by Jules-Claude Ziegler (1804-1856) – “The History of Christianity”.  Once again we can see Mary Magdalena… but also some historic kings and rulers… and also Muhammad, Luther… and in the very front – Napoleon!

Not really within the subject, but I wonder what is happening to what is supposed to be one of the most beautiful public toilets in the world? It’s been closed for a couple of years. I wrote about it here, when it was still open.

Maybe also a reminder that you, for a yearly subscription of 5 Euros, can have a good lunch for 8.50 Euros in a restaurant in the basement of the church.   

Looking for caviar, goose liver… ?

Where the Madeleine Church (L’Eglise Sainte-Marie-Madeleine) now is standing was previously an old church (which was a synagogue until the 12th century). It was then already consecrated to Mary Magdalene. There were different projects during the 18th century to construct a new one, more appropriate to the distinguished surroundings (Place de la Concorde - see previous posts).

Below you can see what it could have looked like. Work had started when the Revolution arrived and then of course it was discussed whether to transform it to a library, a ballroom, a market place... In 1806 Napoleon decided to transform the future building to a “Temple to the Glory of the Great Army”. Finally, during the Restoration, it was again decided to make it a church, although later there were some discussions to possibly make it a railway station. The building was finally consecrated as a church in 1842.

The church is in a neo-classical style, very much in fashion during the 18th and early 19th century (see previous posts about Pantheon, National Assembly...). It’s today one of the most prestigious churches in Paris, used for masses, fashionable weddings and funerals and even more for very good concerts.

Around the place, you can find some of the most exclusive food shops in Paris. If you are a fan of caviar, goose liver... and what goes with it when it comes to drinking, this is a place to go. One of Paris’ best restaurants is here, there are some fashionable shops....

Leading to the place is also one of Paris’ many covered galleries (Galérie de la Madeleine). (See previous posts about similar galleries or passages*.) The place has also a nice "flower market".

There is also an exhibition hall (Pinacothèque), where until last weekend you could discover the famous Chinese Terracotta Army (which I have been lucky enough to see in real in Xi’an – here is the “proof”).

At last I believe I must once more (see previous post) advise a visit to one of the world’s most beautiful public places to “wash your hands”. It’s free of charge and you can find it on the right side of the church stairs. */
Galérie Colbert, Galérie Viro-Dodat, Galérie Vivienne, Passage des Deux Pavillons, Passage Hulot
Passage Jouffroy, Passage Prado, Passage des Panoramas
Passage Vendôme
Passage Brady
Passage Bourg l’Abbé, Passage du Grand Cerf