After the
visit to Khiva (see preceding post), the Uzbekistan trip continued in the direction of
Bukhara, a bus drive of close to 500 km (300 miles), at first surrounded by a domination
of cotton fields…,
... then for a
while along the Amu Darya River, once an important source for the Ural Sea,
today (over)-used for irrigation, more or less the border to Turkmenistan…,
... followed by
a long straight road (sometimes a bit jumpy) along desert land, Kara-Kum (black
sand) in the south and Kyzyl Kum (red sand) in the north, with a welcomed break
for a visit to a “tualet”. Then the green landscape comes back and you arrive
to Bukhara.
Bukhara,
one of the major sites along the Silk Road, has for centuries been a centre of
trade, scholarship, culture and religion – once (9th and 10th
centuries), capital of the Samanid Empire which covered a large part of Central
Asia and Persia, and Bukhara was then the intellectual centre of the Islamic world. The Persian
influence has always been great and, still today, the population is dominated
by Persian-speaking Tajiks, although officially Uzbeks. Bukhara was the capital
of an emirate until 1920, when the Red Army arrived, heavily bombing the city. The
Bukharan People’s Soviet Republic was created, integrated into the Uzbek Soviet
Socialist Republic in 1925.
The old
city is partly surrounded by a wall and in the east you find the rests of a fortress,
the Ark, with origins from the 5th century.
There are
some 140 architectural monuments to see. Here are some pictures, in a total
mixture. The top picture (taken in the sunset) is of the Po-i-Kaylan complex with its minaret from
1127, one of the few monuments which has survived invasions, bombings. The
mosque is from the 16th century. Otherwise, it should be known that many
of the Uzbekistan monuments have been heavily restored especially during the
1990’s.
Just outside
the city centre you will find the Khoja Baha ud-Din Naqshband mosque, linked to the
Sunni Islam Sufism, obviously much venerated by the population - many local
visitors in their best dresses. (You may also notice the sweeping lady with her
mobile phone.)
The market
offers a lot for tourists, proposed by smiling people, addressing you in
English, French…
You see a
lot of carpets. Bukhara carpets is a well-known concept, although the ones we
know today are mainly produced in Iran and Pakistan. (Please note the Lenin-version.)
You may
also find some more surprising souvenirs.
Some photos
from the local food market.
Bukhara is
a very nice city for just walking around. There is a very nice and peaceful
atmosphere and you meet a charming population.
One nice surprise was to run into an "after-wedding" women party.
Bukhara was
the home of a large community of “Bukharan Jews”. Today only a few remain – one
estimates 150.000 of them to live in Israel, some 60.000 in the U.S., possibly
the reason why Hillary Clinton and Madeleine Albright have paid visits to the
remaining modest little synagogue.
Next episode will bring us to Shakhrisabz.
8 comments:
Fascinated by those succulent rugs! I also very much like that hanging tapestry depicting Vladimir Ulyanov......
The sun's luminosity makes those old building look like made of candy.
The young ladies are so beautiful! They know how to smile to the photographer........
¡Un millon de gracias, Peter, por este articulo tan fascinante!
Maria
Fascinant! Une mine de photos sur lesquelles s'arreter, une par une...
Beautiful people, and colourful place! Wonderful pictures!
Leia
The domes, filigree, faces and colors are not disappointing. In fact I am surprised at how rich and prosperous it all feels. Terrific photos. I would like to walk through a gallery of them full sized. :)
This is stunning, Peter. That sunrise (or sunset?) is dazzling and that incredible color in the file makes me smile. Your photos of the people really help 'take us there.'
Magnifique reportage !
Que de photos ! Que de photos !
Oh, this city looks very colurful and friendly. How nice! That photo of the setting sun above the mosque actually gave me chills. Gorgeous.
Bouchara...Bouchara...ça me dit quelque chose, c'est pas ce magasin de tissus qui a été racheté par des Suédois ? Hmmm...
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