... AD 79

While in the area, a visit to Vesuvius and the ruins of what was covered by its eruption AD 79, including of course Pompeii  and Heraculaneum is of course a "must". 

Vesuivius has erupted many times, before and after; three times during the 20^th century, latest in 1944, but the AD 79 one was obviously one of the most destructive ones.

Pompeii was covered by some 25 m (80 ft) of tephra layers when it was first rediscovered in 1599 and when excavations were made during the 18^th century. It has been a tourist attraction since some 250 years. You are of course impressed by what you see and, once again, looking on the traces of the level of civilization, including statues, paintings… you wonder why we had to wait for centuries before Europe could again produce similar master works, to get running water… We can even see pedestrian crossings! 

There were some disappointments with Pompeii concerning slow and unfriendly ticket purchase, lack of maintenance… , but it’s of course a place you must see. You need hours!!

Closer to Naples and the coast you will find the remains of another Roman city, which was covered by the same eruption, but to a lesser extent than Pompeii, Herculaneum (the present town is called Ercolano). Also here, the excavations started in the 18^th century – large parts (75%) are still hidden by the present town. Herculaneum was AD 79 a coast town, more wealthy then Pompeii. Buildings have been better preserved, there are today less visitors… , definitely worth the visit!

Well, of course we had to climb the 1281 m (4200 ft) high Mount Vesuvius. You can come rather close to the top by car, hope to be lucky for parking space… and then walk for about half an hour, see the crater and get splendid (little misty) views in the direction Naples, Capri…

       

I want to go back...

So, again, we were lucky to find a fabulous villa for our annual holidays, kids and grandkids, all together. We stayed in a little village, Sant’ Agata sui due Golfi. The house was excellent and we got perfect service. If you wish, I would with pleasure give the address to the agency. (I have no commission. :-) )  From my sleeping room terrace, I had a nice view of Capri!

In the village you will also find one of Italy’s best restaurants, “Don Alfonso”, a fantastic experience - I probably had my best meal ever! (Again, I have no commission. :-) )

Here are some pictures from the Sorrento Peninsula, the Amalfi Coast…, including from the village Amalfi. I have the feeling that I never managed to take the “perfect photo”. The best views are often when you are on the road and the roads are narrow, with no chance to stop and park… Anyhow, you have to believe me. It’s really beautiful all over!

Naples

Back from too short family holidays in Italy. This time we had rented a house on the Sorrentino Penisula, perhaps more known for its Amalfi Coast, close to Capri, Vesuvius … and Naples.

“Forgetting” Paris for a while, let me first show you something from Naples.

My beforehand idea of Naples was to a large extent linked to narrow streets, balconies, drying linen … I got it confirmed. 

In the “old town”, there are a number of monuments (sometimes tagged, sometimes invaded by a bit of wild grass..), tens of churches, beautiful, but mostly with restricted photo rights. I was especially impressed by a number of sculptures, statues, in the Sansevero Chapel, more particularly by the “Veiled Christ” (1753, by Giuseppe Sanmartino). The picture is from Wikipedia.

Naples is clearly linked to the “pizza”. Although pizza-like food has been eaten since thousands of years, the modern “pizza” that we know was born in the 19^th century, when tomatoes, with origins in the Americas, became an important ingredient. Purists consider that there are only two real “pizzas”, the Marinara and the Margherita, named after Queen Margherita, evoking the colours of the Italian flag - green (basil leaves), white (mozzarella) and red (tomatoes). A few pizzerias claim to be the best, the traditional ones. Of course we had to line up.

There is a more monumental-type of surroundings close to the medieval Castel Nuovo, the  17^th century Royal Palace, one of the homes of the Kings of the Naples, of the Two Sicilies (and for a short while of Joseph Bonaparte / Julie Clary, followed by Joachim Murat / Caroline Bonaparte), the Teatro San Carlo, the Piazza Plebiscito, the San Francesco di Paola Church, the spectacular Galleria Umberto… . 

With a lot of courage (especially in hot weather), you can climb the several centuries old steps...

... to the top of Naples, to find the Castel Sant’Elmo and especially the Certosa di San Martino, a former monastery, closed during the Napoleonic years, today a museum, constructed between the the 14^th and 17^th centuries, fabulously decorated. The statue of the Virign is by Pietro Bernini, father of the even more famous, Gian Lorenzo Bernini. 

The views over Naples and Vesuvius are already worth the climbing.