I had the
privilege to visit this “hotel pariculier” (private mansion, townhouse) with
one of Paris’ best preserved (and restored) 17th century interiors.
It’s today referred to as “Hôtel Lauzun” and is since 1928 owned by the City of
Paris. The building is to be found on Ile Saint Louis, which was more or less uninhabited
until the 17th century, but then got a number of similar townhouses
built, mostly for the aristocracy, but also for some rich “bourgeois”, which was
the case with this building. The first owner, by the name of Charles Gruyn, had
made a fortune on supplying cereals to the armies, later imprisoned (mixed up
in Nicolas Fouquet’s disfavour). It seems to be a bit unsure who was the architect
– Louis Le Vau or Charles Chamois and most of the interior decorators and
painters are also unknown. The year of completion seems anyhow to have been
1657.
The
building got the name for which it’s known today from a later occupant, the
Duke of Lauzun (1632-1723), an adventurous personality, with some serious ups and downs
with regard to royal favours (ten years in prison), finally more or less
secretly married to the “greatest heiress in Europe”, known as “La Grande
Mademoiselle”, cousin of Louis XIV.
The
exterior toward the Seine quays offers a beautiful balcony, some dolphin
decorated gutters, and a miss-spelled inscription of Lauzun’s name.
Some
pictures from the interior yard.
The views
from the windows show nice surroundings such as the Seine River, the Pont Marie (…
not the Mary you may believe, but the family name of the person responsible for
its construction, complete in 1635), the dome of the Saint Paul Church…
Some views
from the main entrance stairs, ceilings…
… and some
from the first floor.
The second
floor offers a row of rooms…
… all
covered by paintings, especially by gold, and all kinds of decoration – no “empty
space” anywhere.
During the
18th century the premises had a number of occupants, but the island
was no longer so popular with the higher aristocracy. The Revolution arrived. In
the beginning of the 19th century this hôtel belonged to the Marquis de
Pimodan, who temporarily gave it his name. Many of the mansions on the island were
split into apartments, workshops… This one was saved by a rich art collector, the
Baron Pichon, who bought it in 1842 and gave it back its name “Hôtel Lauzun”. He
rented rooms on the top floor to some illustrious members of the literary intelligentsia,
like Charles Baudelaire and Théophile Gautier. We can see the less prestigious
stairs leading to this top floor. Baudelaire started to write “Les Fleurs du
Mal” here and this is also where Baudelaire, Gautier, de Nerval, Dumas,
Delacroix… met to do some drug experiments, the “Club de Haschischins”.
Today the
City of Paris has installed “L’Institut d’Etudes Avancées” here. You may be
able to get in by the help of a professional guide or historian.
7 comments:
Bonjour cher Peter,
Ce sont deux belles promenades que je viens de faire grâce à toi et tes deux billets dont le précédent que j'avais manqué.
l'Hôtel Lauzun est une maison prestigieuse, qui se trouve également dans un lieu magnifique, presque magique avec la Seine...
Ses décors sont extraordinaires. Chaque détail est une oeuvre d'art.
J'aime aussi cette cour pavée qui renferme tous les secrets du temps passé.
Gros bisous à toi ♡
De bien jolis decors avec ce bleu azur un peu partout.
Effectivement l'escalier de service ne semble pas etre du meme style!
Tu en as des passe-droits dis donc!
Wow Peter , you are right , a great privilege . Must see if you can take us around one day when I come over next. My friends who live in Paris and the suburbs would love to have a little tour with you, If that is ok with you.
Fabulous photos and a great post.
Great post, Peter!!! I smiled, imagining all those artistic greats, sitting up on the top floor, lighting up their hash pipes. :) What an exquisite building with such a fascinating history, and the view - fantastic!!!
Kathryn
Mil gracias por su lindo relato sobre el maravilloso Hotel de Lauzun.
¿La parte mas fascinante para mi?
El que mi poeta favorito Charles Baudelaire haya vivido alli.
Su maravilloso poema Le Chat sigue siendo mi favorito.
Viens, mon beau chat, sur mon coeur amoureux;
Retiens les griffes de ta patte,
Et laisse-moi plonger dans tes beaux yeux,
Mêlés de métal et d'agate..........
Maria
I am reading a book by Sergeanne Golon at the moment and most of the story is set in 17th Century Paris. Thank you for bringing it alive for me.
We will be over (again) in November so will have to go look - even if it is on the outside!!!
Thanks again for a brilliant post and photos.
xx
J'en avais entendu parler seulement et c'est une belle découverte pour moi.Décors magnifiques et des occupants célèbres.
Comme Thérèse : tu as tes entrées partout.
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