19.10.09

Some alleys along Rue du Faubourg Saint Denis


Thank you so much for being patient with my absences. I’m back again, for a while I hope.

The day before I left for Sweden, I had a luncheon at the Brassereie Flo with Carol – “ParisBreakfasts”, at Cour des Petites Ecuries, which stands for the Small Stables Court. Around here you could until the end of the 18th century find some stables and all the equipment you needed for your horses, carriages... It’s actually a tiny alley and you enter it from the Rue du Faubourg St. Denis (at no. 63). Flo is one of the most typical Paris brasseries you can find and it has not much changed since its opening by the end of the 19th century. It has now given its name to a number of other "Flo Brasseries".
This is not one of the more fashionable areas of Paris, but it has a particular charm which you may appreciate. Just on the opposite side of the rue Faubourg St. Denis (no. 54), behind some sometimes closed doors, is another little alley, Passage Reilhac; perhaps not very spectacular, but nice and calm, with some statues and fountains. Now it’s basically a backyard to some restaurants, but it seems that about a century ago you could find a dance academy here (run by Eugène Giraudet who obviously published much appreciated dance manuals which included instructions of “etiquette” and “appropriate behaviour”.)
You can also push the doors at no. 65 and find this small alley or passage. There are many more of them along the street, if you look to the right and to the left and push some doors.
This is where you can find these places (with the Saint Denis Arch of Triumph - see previous post - in the background on the photo):

60 comments:

Virginia said...

Well look here, I'm the first to say WELCOME HOME! Glad you're back. We've missed you here in blogworld. We have NOT been behaving while you were away, but you knew that! Something about some of these photos look very familiar to moi. Hmmmm. I think maybe that last day??? I'm not sure now:)
V

Gina V said...

I love these hidden alleys and passages - they truly add to the mystery of Paris and makes one wonder even more about the secret lives behind all those enormous portal doors and imposing facades...
Happy to know that you are back in "town" again!

Ruth said...

Bonjour, Peter, welcome back. I hope things went well in Sweden. I missed you.

I have planned itineraries for friends going to Paris. But every day's "plan" has to include lots of free time to turn this way and that and discover alleys and courtyards and parks that become special for personal reasons. Everyone has their own Paris.

Rakesh Vanamali said...

Welcome back! Hope your mother is doing well!

Good pictures here!

James said...

Welcome back! I always enjoy your photos.

SusuPetal said...

Welcome back, Peter. Did you have already snow in Sweden. It has snowed a couple of times in Helsinki, but luckily the snow has melted right away.

alice said...

Voilà un lundi qui commence bien puisque tu es de retour. A t-il fait froid en Suède, comme les infos l'ont rapporté?
Et après la lecture de ton post du jour, je saurai où laisser mon cheval quand je vais venir vendredi!

Olivier said...

A la brasserie FLO, que de souvenirs, je sais pas comment c'est maintenant, mais 'de mon temps parisien' j'adorais

Cergie said...

A peine rentré et te voilà au bistrot avec une copine...
Je ne sais comment tu te débrouilles, mais tous les endroits où tu te rends, tu les rends tout à fait "propres sur eux"

hpy said...

Ces endroits aussi font partie du charme de Paris. (Mais, je l'avoue, venue à Paris il y a huit jours, j'étais bien contente de rentrer à la campagne. Trop de monde, trop de voitures, trop de bruit, trop d'odeurs. Il ne faudrait pas se déshabituer de Paris.)

Adam said...

Welcome back - and keep pushing open those doors!

Nathalie said...

A mon tour de te souhaiter welcome home Peter ! Une rue mouillée dont le trottoir brille mais des brasseries aux couleurs chaudes qui invitent à entrer, pour moi c'est tout l'esprit de Paris, ça !

J'espère que ton séjour suédois n'a pas été trop pénible, je te souhaite de belles nouvelles aventures parisiennes.

designslinger.com said...

Welcome back!
When we were in Pairs this past April we ventured up into the neighborhood in search of an Indian restaurant in Passage Brady. But we completely missed Passage Reilhac.
So for our next visit, it's on the list along with lunch at Brassereie Flo!

Catherine said...

En regardant tes photos Peter, j'imagine le son des sabots sur les ruelles pavées. Un son et images.

Non, je suis parisienne, Peter...j'écoule simplement mon stock de photos prises pendant mes 3 mois d'hésitation sur l'avenir de mon blog. La fourmis parisienne était prévoyante, elle a fait des photos en prévision des jours gris parisiens.

Contente de te savoir parisien, donc blogueur à nouveau.... A demain...

Thérèse said...

Tu es donc prêt à reprendre tes aventures à travers les rues de Paris et nous aussi: tu nous as manqué.
Toutes ces rues avec leur charme. La seule chose qui me dérange lorsque je suis de passage c'est la respiration en voiture sous les tunnels...

Maya said...

Welcome back! Nice to "see" you!

feasting-on-pixels (terrie) said...

Welcome back Peter...!
Lovely images of Cour des Petites Ecuries. I was taken there on a tour by a Flickr friend that also lives in Paris.

claude said...

Salut Peter ! Contente de te retourver sur la toile !
C'est quand même plus plaisant de se ballader rue du Faubourg St-Denis que dans la rue St-Denis tout court.
Dans le temps, quand j'étais beaucoup plus jeune j'avais une copine qui habitait Cours des Petites Ecuries. Je connaissais bien le coin.
Tu as le chic de dénicher des endroits charmants de la capitale.de

from cali said...

The passages and alleys are so quaint.

Anne in Oxfordshire said...

Welcome back Peter, hope you don't have to rush off too soon. Another area that I have not seen, but I think Leesa has..!!

Starman said...

Welcome back. You were missed.
Isn't rue du Faubourg St. Denis known for its prostitutes?

Shammickite said...

I would be a little nervous about pushing open those doors in case I was opening the door to a private garden, perhaps with a big dog with a lot of teeth!
The narrow lanes and passages are charming, I will definitely visit next time I am in paris!

Catherine said...

It is the best thing to do...wander the back streets of a city...love these lanes and alleys

Carole said...

Contente de revoir tes posts Peter !
toujours aussi sympathiques...quand vas-tu nous révéler ton secret, tu sais, celui de dénicher des coins pas banals ??
A demain !

Cezar and Léia said...

Glad to know you had a great time with your friend and you tood wonderful pictures!I'm curious about Passage Reilhac, this place looks really charming!And just by the side of a "Cave a Vin"!!!
So dear friend, welcome back again and many thanks for your always support and kind words!
"Au revoir"
hugs
Léia

√ Abraham Lincoln said...

Very nice look at the little streets in your fair city. Thanks too for your visit.

Mo said...

Don't know what you had at Brasserie Flo but they do the best steak tartare in Paris.

Jilly said...

Just love Cafe Flo and adore your photos of the passage. What a beautiful part of Paris with it's cobblestones. And lucky you to know Carole from Paris from Paris Breakfasts. I've subscribed to her excellent blog for ages now. One very talented painter. And lucky her to meet you Peter. Welcome back. We missed you.

ParisBreakfasts said...

Oh why did I not "push some doors" as you suggest?
Quelle dommage
Well I will have to wait for next time for the pushing..
I love your shot of Flo and the cours entrance - I was thinking I should finally take a shot as I ran off to catch the RER to CDG yesterday and did not :(
plus dommage
Lovely to see your view of my cours Peter!
Best,
Carolg

☼ FRANCE ☼ said...

Bonjour et bien je pense que si je passe vers ici avec tes photos je ne vais pas me perdre merci et bonne journée☼

☼ FRANCE ☼ said...

Bonjour et bien je pense que si je passe vers ici avec tes photos je ne vais pas me perdre merci et bonne journée☼

rauf said...

The front side is always kept clean and people don't bother much about back alleys which are normally dark and dirty and known for criminal activities. i have seen a lot of action in the back alleys in the Hollywood movies most common is a man running and a car full of goons chasing him and our Hero runs into a narrow dark back alley which has a dead end. Then comes karate, action, guns.

18th century horse and carriage accessories is modern day automobile spares and garage.

Welcome back Peter. Hope your mother is doing fine.

le banc moussu said...

welcome back in sunny Paris Peter.
Je suis passé refaire un petit tour chez toi et j'aime beaucoup le fait que tu inclus un plan.
A bientôt
christian

Denise said...

welcome back. I yearn to travel and you especially make me yearn for visiting Paris!

Anna Bobryk photography said...

Bonjour!
Tu me demande quelles photos j'ai fiche sur un expose uo quoi ? :)))))))

arabesque said...

ca va peter! ^-^ almost everyone has something to say in french. lol
the 1st foto distinctly shows it's art nouveau inspired and even the back alleys impressively look clean. i hope you will stay here for awhile. miss your fotos!

Mona said...

Welcome back Peter! I hope your Mother is doing fine back in Sweden!

Wow! Those Alleys look so neat & clean! & I love the lamps in front of the brassereie!

ALAIN said...

Il me semble que dans le coin il y a un passage envahi par les petits restos Indiens. Boulevard de Strasbourg, c'est le coin des coiffeurs afros. Un chouette quartier pour se balader. J'ai déjà diné chez ce Flo, mais c'est un peu impersonnel.

krystyna said...

Welcome Peter!
How is your Mom?

Really this is a charm and interesting area. Behind some sometimes closed doors - as you said - is another alley. Wow, must be very unique places.

My best wishes to you, your Mom and your family!

Peter said...

Virginia:
Maybe you went here... but not with me! :-)

Peter said...

Gina V:
Good, let's keep pushing the doors! :-)

Ruth:
Thanks, everything is OK with my mother. She's just old and has now moved to a small flat where she's closely taken care of. As only son, I will try to go and see her quite regularly. :-)

Rakesh:
Thanks! For my mother, see above! :-)

Peter said...

James:
Thanks so much! :-)

SusuPetal:
It was almost snowing (mixed rain / snow) when I left. A bit chilly! :-)

Alice:
Je vais réserver une place pour ton cheval! :-)

Peter said...

Olivier:
C'est toujours OK, une brasserie typique! :-)

Cergie:
Paris n'est pas propre partout? :-)

hpy:
On ne peut pas tout avoir! :-)

Peter said...

Adam:
Yes, let's keep pushing! :-)

Nathalie:
Heureusement qu'on trouve des endroits pour rentrer! :-)

Designlinger:
The doors of Passage Reilhac may not always be open, but those of Brasserie Flo should be! :-)

Peter said...

Catherine:
Donc, peut-être à un de ces jours, quelque part entre le 17e et le 18e? :-)

Thérèse:
Donc, tu dois marcher à pied, rouler en vélo, prendre le métro... :-)

Maya:
The same! :-)

Peter said...

Terrie:
I'm sure you know "everything" in Paris! :-)

Claude:
Tu connais aussi tous les endroits de Paris! :-)

From cali:
... as you say! :-)

Peter said...

Anne:
But you will soon be back, I'm sure! :-)

Starman:
Rue St. Denis, yes, Rue du Faubourg St. Denis, no! :-)

Shammickite:
So far I never met any nasty dog! :-)

Peter said...

Catherine:
I can but agree! :-)

Carole:
Aucun secret, il faut juste avoir le temps! :-)

Léia:
Thanks dear friend! So when can we expect you, Cezar, daughter... Hugs! :-)

Peter said...

Abraham:
Yes, it's a "fair city"! :-)

Mo:
I had a steak tartare! :-)

Jilly:
Nice to meet bloggers, including YOU of course! :-)

Peter said...

ParisBreakfasts:
Well, of course, there were no macarons behind these doors, not even a dog! :-)

France:
Avec ma carte, ça devrait aller! :-)

Rauf:
Actually, it's sometimes the contrary; it's nicer behind the facades! :-)

Peter said...

le banc mossu:
J'aime bien étudier les cartes et m'orienter! :-)

Denise:
Good! That is what I'm hoping for! :-)

Anna:
J'aimerai voir les photos que tu as exposées! :-)

Peter said...

Arabesque:
Thanks! Yes, I guess I will stay here for a few weeks now! :-)

Mona:
Mother is OK, thanks, just old! :-)

Alain:
Passage Brady, juste à coté! Ici, on trouve beaucoup de turcs! :-)

Peter said...

Krystyna:
Thanks, as said above, Mom is OK, but needs some help and company now and then! :-)

Virginia said...

Peter.
I see from your comments that you mom is doing well and I know she enjoys your visits so very much. I'm glad you were able to spend some time with her. Hope all is well. We're glad you are back with us.
V

Yaëlle said...

ehehe j'adore me perdre dans ces rues et passage du 10ème...surtout à la belle saison quand le soleil se couche dans l'alignement des rues. Cela fait de très belles ombres de gens de 10 m de long :-)
A bientôt

Peter said...

Virginia:
Thanks for your always kind words! :-)

Yaëlle:
What a pleasure to find you commenting here!! I will go and look for the long shadows... a sunny day!
Oui, à bientôt!

Seda said...

Hi Peter! You caught me again. I am trying to keep up withmy blog. With all the changes in my life and busy schedule, I hope I'll be permanent.

good pictures again.
with love,
seda

Peter said...

Seda:
So happy to see you back blogging ... and commenting again! Missed you!

Dusty Lens said...

Fantastic! I enjoy the spires. I tried my best to capture St. Clothilde, but the sun and sky was not cooperating.

Peter said...

Dusty Lens:
Sometimes you are lucky, sometimes you are not! :-)