28.10.09

Ernest Hemingway in Paris - "A Moveable Feast"


This is a try to follow the trace of Ernest Hemingway in Paris.


Ernest made a short visit to Paris during WWI, but he really arrived here in December 1921, together with his then wife, Hadley, as a reporter for "Toronto Star", but with the ambition to become a real author. They stayed for a short while at "Hôtel d'Angleterre", 44 rue Jacob...







... and immediately discovered a favourite restaurant, the close by "Le Pré-aux-Clercs", 30 rue Bonaparte.











They soon settled down in a simple flat on the third floor of 74 rue Cardinal Lemoine, close to rue Mouffetard, just behind the Pantheon. They stayed here for a couple of months.










It seems that Ernest also rented a room to be able to write in peace, 39 rue Descartes, just round the corner. (This is also the building where the French poet Verlaine died.)










The couple later moved to 113 rue Notre-Dame-des-Champs...












... very close to "La Closerie-des-Lilas", which also became a bar and restaurant to which he often returned. Ezra Pound was a neighbour and friend.










Ernest ("Hem") managed quickly to get introduced to some of the leading writers and artists who then worked in Paris. He visited regularly "Shakespeare & Co", the famous library, at its preceding address, 12 rue d'Odéon, close to the Odeon Theatre, then owned by Sylvia Beach, who published "Ulysses" by James Joyce in 1922. Joyce became also a very good friend of Ernest, like other frequent visitors such as F. Scott Fitzgerald. ("Shakespeare & Co" run by Sylvia Beach was closed in 1941 as she refused to sell a book - by Joyce - to a German officer. The buisness was taken over after the War by George Whitman, who opened the "Shakespeare & Co" we know today, rue de la Bûcherie.)


The same and other authors also met at Gertrude Stein's flat, 27 rue de Fleurus.












These were the days when these friends also discovered "Le Select", "Le Dôme", "La Rotonde", "La Coupole"... not too far from "La Closerie-des-Lilas", all on Boulevard Montparnasse...









... and "Les Deux-Magots", at Saint-Germain-des-Prés.












The couple moved to Toronto for a a while (the son John -"Bumby" - was born) and came back to Paris a few months later... divorced in 1927. Toghether with a new wife, Pauline, he settled down at 69 rue Frodevaux, just behind the Montparnasse cemetery...








... and then at 6 rue Férou, just between the Luxembourg Palace and the Saint Sulpice Church... before leaving Paris and moving to Key West.










Ernest later never really lived in Paris, but he was in and out frequently during the 30's, obviously mostly staying in hotels, one of which was "Hôtel-du-Mont-Blanc", 28 rue de la Huchette.









He was of course present during the liberation of Paris in 1944 and then back again and again...

Although it seems that his working and living habits were concetrated to the left bank, his drinking habits seems to have spread also the right bank. When we think about Hemingway and Paris, we automatically think of "Harry's Bar", 5 rue Daunou - also formerly regularly visited by Coco Chanel, Rita Hayworth and Aly Khan, Humphrey Bogart, the Duke of Windsor..., where George Gerhswin composed "An American in Paris" and where the "Bloody Mary" was invented...



...and the bar which later even got his name at the very fashionable "Hôtel Ritz", Place Vendome.





During his Paris years, Ernest quit his job as a reporter for the "Toronto Star" and started "real writing", like "In Our Time", "The Torrents of Spring", "The Sun Also Rises", "Men Without Women"...


To conclude this "study", I thought it would be nice to have a drink at the "Bar Hemingway" at the "Ritz", so a couple of days ago, together with some friends, including Karen, we went there. The bar is supposed to have some of the world's best drinks ... and bartenders; you can see one on the top picture.

60 comments:

Jessica said...

What a neat post, Peter. I'd love to take that walk and visit all the places Hemingway visited. I hope it was enjoyable for you.

Virginia said...

Peter,
Oh, a moveable feast it most certainly is, but may I add that nothing compares to actually BEING in Paris pour moi. Very interesting post here. As always, photos and text that were new to me. What would we do without you? Merci
V

PS Look forward to seeing the granddog when he is ready for a café appearance. :)

Peter (the other) said...

Peter, my friend Tony rents the apartment in your photo, of 74 Cardinal Lemoine, in case any of your readers wants to come to Paris and stay where Washingt... uh, I mean Hemingway stayed!

Polly said...

Peter, thanks for the 'literary" tour!

Rakesh Vanamali said...

Thanks for this wonderful photo-guide! Loved it!

And the bar looks stocked ;)

from cali said...

I've always wanted to have a drink at the Bar Hemingway. How was it?

Marvelous tour.

alice said...

Je ne sais pas si ce sont tous ces déménagements ou les cocktails du Ritz mais pfiou, j'ai la tête qui tourne!

claude said...

Ah ! La vie d'Hemingway à Paris !
Il a eu raison de choisir cette ville pour y passer un temps de sa vie. Il y a un quartier dans ce que tu décris que je connais bien.
J'y ai vu des gens célèbres.
Hemingway est un des rares auteurs que j'ai lu.
Que lis-je ! Le bloody mary de Larry a été inventé à Paris !!!
Je vais lui faire passer l'info.

Karen said...

Wonderful post, Peter. The Hemingway Bar at the Ritz was impressive. Very good drinks and accompanied by Olives, Almonds, and very good chips.
Great evening with lovely friends.
Many of Hemingway's places are near me but I don't have enough time to visit them now.

Adam said...

Glad to hear that you were rewarded with a drink at the Ritz. I'm not sure that Hemmingway ever had just one though!

It's a good idea for a walk and very well researched. I'd love to put it on my freepariswalks site!

Ruth said...

So fun. I wish I had tagged along while you took all those photos. I've done just a few of these myself, but you did the whole nine yards, even a drink at the Ritz!

And the other Peter's friend renting out the Cardinal Lemoine apartment! I looked at the link and it is restored and gorgeous, wow. And very reasonable - about what we paid on Ile St-Louis, and for bragging rights!

hpy said...

We can thus conclude that Ernst was more French than American! And more Parisian than French.

Nathalie said...

Wow Peter, your post is a moving feast for the eyes and the mind. Thanks for taking us on this itinerary, it's fascinating. I'm impressed with the work you did on this post!

Kate said...

In the past we used to rent a flat on Cardinal Lemoine a block or two from Hemingway's. For two former English literature majors, it was a real thrill. Paris really is A Moveable Feast!

Cergie said...

Génial Peter !
A présent il te faudrait faire la même chose pour Sartre et Beauvoir ; George Sand ; et Jorge Semprun aussi, j'adorerais, mais ne suis pas sûre que cela passionnerait les foules de bloggueurs d'outre-atlantique.
(On pourrait faire cela entre nous ou en petit comité, qu'en penses tu ?)

Matritensis said...

Here, in Madrid, we have a Hemingway tour, specially hotels and bars, too many bars hehehe

regards Peter!

Mo said...

Would loved to have joined you for a drink at Bar hemmingway.

Starman said...

I think it's really great that Peter (the other) has invited everyone to stay with his friend in one of Hemingway's former apartments.

Anne in Oxfordshire said...

Another great post Peter, thank you..so much to see and do..would make a great walk for my friends !

Thanks for comments on my blog, appreciated. :-)

JM said...

Remarkable work, Peter! Loved this post!

feasting-on-pixels (terrie) said...

I love this post so much Peter...
Hemingway is one of my favorites.
I have been to the house where he was born many times,
which is not too far from my home here in the US.
I have been to many of the places on this tour, love Harrys...!
Merci beaucoup for such a wonderful tour...! ! !

Unseen Rajasthan said...

Beautiful and lovely post !! Nice shot//

Maya said...

Oh, this was so much fun! Especially since we went to several of those places. It's amazing to me that they are still around!

Cezar and Léia said...

wow Peter, what an idea, I think you did lots of work doing this post, and the result is outstanding!
C'est magnifique!
merci beaucoup cher ami!
Léia

DW Quilt Art said...

Fascinating post!

arabesque said...

retracing back the footsteps of a famous writer seems to be exhausting...shifting from one place to another. ^0^
but worth it, bec. readers like us get to see and appreciate it.

Capy89 said...

oh, I wish I could go to Paris!!You had such an interesting tour! Thanks for this post, I love it :)

Hemingway is one of my favorite writers. I read "The Old Man and the Sea" when I was 14.It made me feel strongly about the Life, Human and Nature. And the fisherman is the most beautiful and lively character I have ever known!
P/s:It seems that these buildings in Paris have been preserved very well. All of them are in good conditions after many years. ^^

ALAIN said...

Il était surtout "rive gauche". Rien vers les quartiers nord. Belleville n'était pas encore à la mode.

Cheryl said...

Hi Peter, saw your comments on my blog. I've been wanting to post new things but just couldn't. But I'm back now and so glad I am. The past month has shown me just how integrated my life is with the internet. Without it and there are lots of pieces missing.

That was a great tour. It goes to show what an large cultural figure he is that I know as much as I do about Hemingway even though I've only read one of his books. But he never really enjoyed living in Paris? That's too bad.

krystyna said...

Thank you so much Peter
for this beautiful post.
Hemingway is one of my fav. author
and it was very nice to see the places when he spent his time in Paris.
Good informations and brilliant photos!

Take care!

Yaëlle said...

Quelle promenade sur les traces d'Ernest! un post vraiment très très chouette qui va donner envie à beaucoup de se replonger dans ses livres....ou d'aller boire un Robertino au Ritz ;-)
Merci encore :-)

Peter said...

Jessica:
If you come here, I can take you along, including the bar! :-)

Virginia:
I have a feeling that you are starting a new list! :-)

Peter (the other):
I have a feeling that the appartment will easily find clients! :-)

Peter said...

Polly:
Perhaps more walking than litterature... but we all know Hemingway, don't we? :-)

Rakesh:
I believe you can ask fo just about any drink in this bar! :-)

From Cali:
After 35 years in Paris, this was my first visit to Bar Hemingway, but I'm prepared to return... :-)

Peter said...

Alice:
J'espère que ta tête ne tourne plus! :-)

Claude:
Tu peux lire sur "Bloody Mary" sur Wikipedia. Il semble en effet qu'elle a inventée à Harry's Bar, mais on parle aussi de "Ritz"... De toute façon, c'est à Paris! :-)

Karen:
You visited the most important one! :-)

Peter said...

Adam:
I have no copyright! :-)

Ruth:
So, some things to be added to your next Paris visit, including the Ritz! :-)

hpy:
Bonne conclusion! :-)

Peter said...

Nathalie:
Thanks, yes, there was some work and walking behind! :-)

Kate:
Nice area! :-)

Cergie:
D'accord, ensemble, avec plaisir! :-)

Peter said...

Matritensis:
I saw a list of - pretended - "Hemingway bars" in Paris; very long! I concentrated on the more famous ones! :-)

Mo:
You would have been most welcome! Next time! :-)

Starman:
Matbe you have to discuss the conditions! :-)

Peter said...

Anne:
Some new ideas for your next trip? :-)

JM:
Yes, a bit of - pleasant - work! :-)

Feasting-on-pixels:
You didn't mention Bar Hamingway, so next time... ! :-)

Peter said...

Unseen R:
Thanks so much! :-)

Maya:
Yes, none of the places have been demolished, although only a few have a real Hemingway "stamp"! :-)

Léia:
Yes, it needed some preparation and walking... ! Merci chère amie! :-)

Peter said...

DW Quilt:
Thanks... and thanks for this first (I believe) comment! :-)

Arabesque:
Happy if you enjoyed; I enjoyed doing the little research and walk! :-)

Capy89:
As you study art, you MUST come to Paris! :-)

Peter said...

Alain:
Je n'ai pas trouvé des bars de Belleville sur "sa liste", en effet. Dommage! :-)

Cheryl:
So nice to see you back! He never really enjoyed Paris? I thought he did! :-)

Krystyna:
Happy you appreciated! Take care you also! :-)

Peter said...

Yaëlle:
Notre visite à Ritz m'a inspiré! On y retourne? ... ou Harry's Bar ou un autre? :-)

Jilly said...

Peter, what a fabulous post, a marvellous idea. It's fascinating to follow Hemingway's time in Paris, what he did, where he stayed. Just love this.

Peter said...

Jilly:
I will try to make some similar tours by other famous Paris habitants or visitors... one day! :-)

GMG said...

I think I'm now in age to get to the Bar Hemingway... ;)
But the Harry's is well known... and it has a hotekl nearby quite convenient: the Choiseul-Opera... ;))

Peter said...

GMG:
So next time, between "club-members", maybe we can go there together? :-)

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Anonymous said...

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Peter said...

I have deleted a few spams!

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Shopping Blog said...
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Peter said...

I have again deleted a few spams.

Julie said...

Hello Peter; you suggested last evening at Genie's soiree that I read your post on Hemingway-in-Paris which I have now done. Between now and when I return in September, I will reread his MF and read the biography of him by Hotchner so that I know more than what Hemingway wrote as an older man remembering.

Now, tomorrow, I will go and search Jardins de Luxembourg for that smaller (original) version of the Statue of Liberty.

Thank you for your time. It was a pleasure chatting with you.

Julie

Karin said...

Heading to Paris for 24 hours. My fellow flight attendants and I are ready to check off as many places as possible. Thanks for the guidance.

ingym said...

Hello Peter,
Thank you for this brilliant posting! I have been to Paris several times, and at the moment I am reading The Paris Wife by Paula McLean. I think she writes so evocatively - you can picture where is in Paris and what it may have been like living there at that time. Your posting brings it even more alive! I am looking forward to Woody Allen's Midnight in Paris - it is all coming together!
Thanks again,
Ingrid