Goutte d'Or

If you walk down the eastern slopes of Montmartre, you will reach an area which is called “Goutte d’Or”, meaning the Golden Drop, a name which refers to the white wine once produced here. (The official "Goutte d'Or" area is the larger one on the map, but normally you refer only to the smaller area.)

Although it has this golden name, it’s not any of the more fashionable areas of Paris; it used even to have - and somehow still has - the opposite reputation. Since some 20 years an important renovation and rehabilitation program is ongoing, which like with many other areas may lead to some kind of gentrification, but it’s still what you can call a working-class area with a very mixed population; the number of immigrants and especially residents with African or Arab origins is high.

This is something you can notice when you walk around the crowded streets and visit some open markets, like the “Marché Dejean”, full of exotic products.
This area was officially annexed to Paris in 1860 and from about the same period dates the church “Saint Bernard de la Chapelle”, although the architecture may look quite gothic. The church has a very good organ, but is known to most people for having been occupied in 1996 by some 300 immigrants wishing to regularize their situation and being expelled by important police resources. When I visited the church the other day, it was peaceful; a limited audience listened to a concert by a young string sextet, plus a flautist. A fine moment!
I‘m leaving for Sweden again, for about a week, but have pre-programmed some posts! Take care!


Anne in Oxfordshire said...

The concert sounds amazing.. I have been to this area, but wasn't there long ..!

Hope your trip to Sweden goes well, look forward to your coming posts. Take care Anne

Simony said...

Every time I see a big crowd like that, I am afraid I will get pickpockets around me. Maybe it's a trauma from big cities...
How do you feel when you go there?
Have a good trip back home!

Catherine said...

i do like scouting out different neighbourhoods in cities and see what the vibe is - this looks like a very interesting corner...

Rakesh Vanamali said...

Very interesting! Has it ever occurred to you to publish a book full of your posts? Maybe you should!

Do have a good trip!

Olivier said...

"En ce temps-là dans chaque famille
On blanchissait de mère en fille
Maintenant on blanchit encor
A la Goutt' d'Or

Elle était encor' demoiselle,
Grand-Maman, la belle Isabelle
Quand elle épousa l'grand Nestor,
A la Goutt' d'Or

Et maman Pauline était sage
Le jour qu'elle se mit en ménage
Avec papa le p'tit Victor
A la Goutt' d'Or

A cette époque-là toutes les fillettes
Les goss'lines, les gigolettes
S'mariaient avec leur trésor
A la Goutt' d'Or

A's s'contentaient l'jour de leur noce
D'un' petit' toilett' pas féroce
Et d'un' jeannette en similor
A la Goutt' d'Or

Leur fallait pas un mari pâle
Mais un garçon d'lavoir... un mâle...
Bien râblé... même un peu butor
A la Goutt' d'Or

Aujourd'hui faut à ces d'moiselles
Des machins avec des dentelles
Et des vrais bijoux en vrai or
A la Goutt' d'Or

Leur faut des jeunes hommes en casquettes
Des rouquins qu'ont des rouflaquettes
Collés sur un' tête d'hareng saur
A la Goutt' d'Or

Et v'là pourquoi toutes les fillettes
Les goss'lines, les gigolettes
S'marient pus avec leur trésor
A la Goutt' d'Or"
Aristide Bruant

SusuPetal said...

Have a nice time in Sweden, Peter. In Finland, the spring has come. It's 17 degrees warm at 8.30 in the morning. Not bad!

hpy said...

Wish I were in Finland with the 17°. Here it's only 2°! HAve a nice trip.

claude said...

C'est super cette visite de la Goutte d'Or. J'avais effectivement entendu dire qu'il y avait des vignobles dans ce coin là, avant.
Comme quoi les nom de quartier portent bien leurs origines.
Bon voyage en Suède et à bientôt !

Cergie said...

Salut Peter, c'est sûr que la Suède sera mieux fréquentée, on n'y trouvera pas de maïs cuit sur brasero ni de tissu africain (ce quartier est très réputé pour le textile comme on voit sur l'enseigne en haut à droite de ton 1er montage). Personne ne te reconduit à la frontière j'espère et tu pourras revenir dans une semaine, tu as ton billet ? Tu n'iras pas en prison en Suède pour avoir renié ton pays natal ?
A plusse Peter !!!

Shammickite said...

Another fascinating area of paris that I knew nothing about. One day I'll stroll those streets! Come back safely from Sweden, Peter, I enjoy your posts very much. I learn something new each day!

Thérèse said...

Certains y plantent-ils du raisin dans ces petits jardins que tu nous montres?
Bon séjour en Suède! Heureusement que tu n'habites pas en Arizona, tu risquerais d'avoir des problèmes à la frontière en rentrant...

Starman said...

Definitely not an area to which I will ever go again.

Vagabonde said...

Such a pleasure de se ballader avec toi en France, Peter. Quand j’étais petite ma grandmère me donnait des pastilles à l’anis de Flavigny, quand j’étais sage, bien sur! Tes dernières photos sont vers Barbes, non? ce n’était pas loin de chez moi. Thanks for coming to my blog and leaving comments. I know how busy you are so I appreciate it a lot. Enjoy your trip.

Shionge said...

I love the open or local market in each and every country that I have visted. This is truly whereby I learn their local culture ya :D

Parisbreakfasts said...

Please do a Finland story!
I wish I could mash-up photos the way you do...
Bon voyage

Catherine said...

We fly over with you in this area. But it would deserve more than one post to "feel" this area. I think one has to roam around the streets to feel its pulse, its exoticism, its contrasts.....An amazing place. Paris is also this kind of area where one doesn't feel in Paris anymore.

Trotter said...

Wonderful post! Hope you had a great trip...