In the
rather small street, Rue Jean-Goujon (named after the renaissance sculptor)
there are two churches, one referred to as a chapel, Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Consolation,
the other one referred to as a cathedral, Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste
(Armenian Apostolic Church). They are
both rather modest in size, were built rather simultaneously (1898-1904) and
have the same architect, Albert Guilbert (1866-1949, who later followed the “fashion”
and made some interesting buildings in Art Nouveau and Art Deco design).
More or
less occupying the space between these churches – before they were built – a temporary
building, the Bazar de la Charité, could be found here. It served for an annual
charity event, organised by the French Catholic aristocracy … and in 1897 a
catastrophe arrived - a fire which cost the life of 126 people and, of course, many
more were seriously injured. The bazaar was held in some kind of a wooden shed,
decorated like a medieval street. A special attraction was a "cinematograph"… and
the equipment caught fire. Where were the signs for the exits…? Panic! The
event made headlines in many newspapers, maybe also as many people – especially
women – were of high ranks. The most famous person who died was the Duchess of
Alençon, sister of the Empress “Sissi” and once the fiancée of King Ludwig
II of Bavaria. She was born in 1847, meaning that she died at the age of 50.
Very
shortly after the disaster, money was collected and the above mentioned Chapelle
Notre-Dame-de-Consolation was built. On this Paris map from 1894 we can see
where the bazaar was situated… and on the Google Earth map, where the chapel today is situated.
Here are
some views from the interior of the chapel. The ceiling has been painted by
Albert Maignan (1845-1908) who also e.g. decorated the walls of the restaurant
Le Train Bleu (see previous post) and of Opéra Comique (see previous post).
There is of
course place made to commemorate the 126 victims. You can find a Veiled Christ,
which somehow refers to the famous "Cristo Velato" in the Capella Sansevero in
Naples (see previous post).
Over the years the donors have opened the church to
different catholic communities with the hope of keeping the chapel in shape. This is costly and the Italian community which
used to occupy the place has lately been forced to leave and has been replaced
by what is referred to as “FSSPX”, the Society of Pius X, an extreme fraternity
which among other things maintains the traditional Latin mass.
A special
attention is of course paid to the Duchess of Alençon. Here we can see her
portrayed young and just a year before she died. Something new for the time, at least in France,
before the DNA, was the first-time identification of bodies with the
help of dentists’ medical cards. Five people were identified this way,
including the Duchess, thanks to some gold fillings... and here we can see her
card.
She is
buried in the Royal Chapel at Dreux. Her tomb effigy was originally made by
Louis-Ernest Barrias (1841-1905), who has made a number of well-known statues
on which I have already reported, La Défense (see here), the Young Girl on the
tomb of Gustave Guillaumet (see here), Maria Deraismes (see here) and Bernard Palissy
(see here). The effigy was considered to be too violent for the tomb and has
been replaced - but can still be seen.
4 comments:
Always a pleasure to browse your impeccable and interesting posts!
Love the architecture of that "modest" church...And the Veiled Christ! ¡Que maravilla!
The other "maravilla" seems to be the Duchess of Alençon. Most of the Wittelsbach ladies were famous for their good looks. Among them, there was once the Princess Augusta, wife of Eugène de Beauharnais, the son of the Empress Josephine.
And those heartbreaking illustrations of the fire...the horror!
Thank you, Peter.
Maria
Fascinating and so very sad. I remember reading about Sissi but not her sister. How very beautiful the church is.
Magnifique et intéressante publication !
Eglise belle tant à l'intérieur qu'à l'extérieur.
I am a professor of art history writing a book about the artist who made the reclining Jesus in this chapel. Would you be willing to share your photos of it with me? Did you take other photos aside from the one here? I would give you credit underneath the photo in my book when it's published.
Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!
Samantha Baskind
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