10.11.10

Rue Lepic

(This was supposed to be a message for tomorrow... Now, nothing else before Friday.)

Previously it used to be even more exhausting to reach the top of Montmartre. It was after a visit to the very old church Saint-Pierre-de-Montmartre (see previous post) - which after the Revolution had become a telegraph station – and when he had to finish by feet that Napoleon decided that a street allowing better access had to be made. This is the today’s Rue Lepic (named after one of Napoleon’s generals). This is perhaps not the street that most walking visitors of Montmartre would use, but it’s definitely an alternative. It will bring you to Place Jean-Baptiste Clément (I will revert) and then you have almost reached the touristic top (Rue Norvins, Place de Tertre, Sacré Coeur…).


If we suppose that we climb the street, the starting point is close to “Moulin Rouge” (see previous posts). Walking up the fist straight part of the street, there are a number of shops and bars, including the “Lux Bar” and the “Café des 2 Moulins”, where Amélie Poulain worked (see previous post).
This part of the street is very busy, but, again, if you push some doors you will be able to find some very calm courts.
Turning to the left, we reach the curbed part of the street. One first point of interest is the house where Vincent van Gogh lived (in his brother’s, Theo, flat) 1886-88. He made a few paintings of the view from the window.
Crossing the street, there used to be a covered market. The entrance doors are now closed, but you can push them and inside there are today a number of workshops.
Continuing our walk, there is today a mixture of buildings from the last centuries, but along the street (see plan above) is where you earlier could see a number of windmills of which Montmartre was more or less covered. We can see them illustrated on some old engravings, but also on paintings by some famous artists.
Today, there are only two windmills left. I wrote about their history in previous posts.
Here are some pictures from the street, the side streets (and stairs) – on which I may revert in later posts, walking upwards.

The further we climb and, especially when we reach Place Jean-Baptiste Clément, the greener it gets.

This is also where Jean-Baptiste Clément lived his last 18 years. He died in 1903 and had a past as a “communard” (participating in the 1871 “Paris Commune”). He’s especially famous as author of the lyrics to one of the most famous French songs, “Le temps des cérises” (The cherry season), which although it’s rather about love has also become some kind of a revolutionary song.
(You may wish to look on the number of posts I have so far made about Montmartre, here and here.)

38 comments:

Nathalie said...

first, hurray !

Nathalie said...

A great part of Paris.

I love that you show both the window of the apartment where Van Gogh lived for a while and a copy of the painting he made of what he saw from the window up there.

The two remaining windmills are amazing. To think that there were so many in the old days and that now the 2 remaining ones are so pressed with buildings all around !

e said...

Hi Peter,

Your posts are wonderful. Thank you for visiting my blog. I have in fact been looking for a way to take your advice but it seems that finding information regarding seeing Paris, using public transit and finding accessible venues for someone using a wheelchair is a bit difficult. Do disabled persons who live in Paris not come out?

PDP had a photo of a demonstration by disabled persons regarding their benefit, but when I asked, I got no answer...

I'm very curious about this as I use a wheelchair.

Thanks for a great post!

Denise Scaramai said...

Peter,
that interesting, elegant
and beautiful blog!
greetings!

Denise,
from São Paulo

V Rakesh said...

Wonderful composition! Very interesting pieces of Paris!

I must say that it is sad to note that the windmills are disappearing fast!

Catherine said...

lovely comprehensive and detailed overview of the street - love the autumn colours in one of your collages...

Pranavam Ravikumar a.k.a. Kochuravi said...

Nice Snaps...!!! Best Wishes..!

Olivier said...

toute une partie de l'histoire de l'art parisien dans ce petit bout de Paris
"Rue Lepic
Dans l'marché qui s'éveill'
Dès le premier soleil,
Sur les fruits et les fleurs
Vienn'nt danser les couleurs
Rue Lepic
Voitur's de quatr' saisons
Offrent tout à foison
Tomat's roug's, raisins verts,
Melons d'or z'et prim'vèr's
Au public,
Et les cris des marchands
S'entremêl'nt en un chant
Et le murmur' des commer's
Fait comme le bruit d'la mer
Rue Lepic,
Et ça grouille et ça vit
Dans cett' vieill' rue d'Paris" Y Montant

travellermimi said...

Cool pics..really nice.

Mimi
Moulin rouge tickets

Amanda Swann said...

I love your blog. Paris is my favorite city in the world and I feel like I get to see so much of it now. These are beautiful pictures!

Amanda
The Cheeky Cafe

ALAIN said...

Ce n'est pas mon coin préféré, mais c'est vrai, quand ce n'est pas envahi, cela a un certain charme.

hpy said...

Ca grimpe à pic.

Sciarada said...

Buongiorno Peter, my passion for Montmartre, is endless and for me to see its streets is always a great emotion! Your photos are sublime enriched by explanations!

Danielle Retief said...

Thanks for creating such a beautiful blog! Paris is the only place I want to be, but have not yet had the funds to go, so this brings me closer!

http://redandpurpleroom.blogspot.com

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Clare said...

I found your blog some time ago through Carol G, but have been lurking. This post has brought me out of of lurkdom!

Montmartre is so beautiful. I did know about the 2 existing windimmsl, but didn't know there were more.

Do you really just push doors courtyard doors open? I thought most of them were locked these days. When I first went to Paris in the early 80's all the doors were open. I just wish I had had a camera then.

Paris Paul said...

Thanks for the informative and elegant tour, Peter! What great photos. My personal favorite on the rue Lepic is the statue of the "Passe muraille". Fun fun fun.

Cezar and Léia said...

So lovely walking! Thanks a lot for taking me with you in this beautiful street called Lepic!
Hugs
Léia

megu said...

I want to go to Pari!!

Synne said...

What a detailed and atmospheric post! I'll make sure to walk this street when I go to Paris on Saturday. Thanks!

Shionge said...

I am just curious, anyone living in that apartment now or is it a place to exhibit his work? Amazing photos :D

Karin (an alien parisienne) said...

So wonderfully-informative, as always! I was just in Père Lachaise Cemetery not long ago, and saw the grave of Jean-Baptiste Clément just next to the Communards' Wall where the Paris Commune rebels were shot and buried in a mass grave there. The photo I took of his tomb is here. In the photos before that one in the set on Flickr, I have some of the Mur des Fédérés, too.

Some people like to hate Montmartre because of its touristy places, but this post about rue Lepic shows it is still a very dynamic and interesting neighborhood. I have an affinity for it, personally -- and maybe because so many others dislike it. I like to like things other people hate, just to be ornery, haha!! ;-) But really, there is a charm that is to be found here for its history, and for the interesting things such as what you pointed out in this post.

Thank you, Peter. :)

iglesiasoviedo said...

Me encanta ver tus fotos y tus comentarios.
Paris es una ciudad que me enamoro completamente el día que la visite por primera vez, tus fotos me están ayudando a conocer más esta ciudad, precisamente siempre residí en Montmartre y es un distrito que me enamoro.
Te sigo.

audrey said...

Wow, you've really outdone yourself, Peter! What a comprehensive post!

amatamari© said...

WOW!!! A post absolutely exceptional
:-)
Is incredible so much beauty and history in a unique street: I love everything especially the staircase that climbs to wait for another suggestion ... ah ... Paris!
:-)
Thank you for these wonderful views and also for all the historical information so interesting ...
:-)

lasiate said...

mais tu t'encanailles Peter!! une bien belle ballade avec des photos de grande qualité

Starman said...

Sadly, I can't navigate Montmartre anymore.

Anne in Oxfordshire said...

Fabulous post Peter .. some more places I have not seen :-) thank you .

Peter (the other) said...

As ever, truly enjoyable. And I so respect your courage to "push" those gates and doors, a wonderful service to us vicarious voyeurs.

WoW captcha=ulipo!

supra shoes said...

thanks for sharing.

rauf said...

Paris nearly looks the same in 1888. i think after this period Van Gogh was taken to the sanitorium in Arles ? not sure Peter, read long time ago.

i Vaguely remember the curve in some movie. Amelie Poulain was a sweet heart. i think too many windmills in a city in modern days is a bit painful they would be fine in the country side though.

arabesque said...

hi peter! ^0^ i'm enjoying the whole series and i miss visiting your blog! excuese for being absent for awhile...
the 1st foto with the windmill was breathtaking, but what got me interested was where Van gogh used to hang out and where Amelie's setting was, the street sure has lots of secrets and stories.

Delphinium said...

ça me rappelle quelque chose... :-)

le hérisson said...

quand on me voit passer, j'entends toujours ce commentaire:
"de bleu, t'as les pics!"
:-)))

Trotter said...

Hi Peter! You caught everything there. It's amazing how those two windmills managed to resist erosion... And «Le temps des cerises» is the cherry on top!!

Blogtrotter Two has moved to a new country and actually to the most populated city in Africa. Enjoy and have a great weekend!

Vagabonde said...

When I feel a bit homesick I know if I come to your blog I’ll be able to see my hometown. Last December after un petit crème au café des 2 moulins to warm us up we walked rue Lepic to the Sacré Coeur. By the time we were up there we were quite warm by the climb. Always fun to come and visit you.

Deepak Gopy said...

Bonjour Peter
Vous rappelez-vous me ?
Je suis de nouveau à blogging. A commencé un nouveau blog. Je signale juste des photos. J'apprends les fondations de la photographie. Vous vous rappelez que j'apprendrai le français. J'ai passé le " de niveau ; A" ; de DELF dans French.I appréciez vraiment vos images et blog. Vous êtes mon premier ami de ventilateur de France.J' aime votre blog.

joanny said...

Peter:

A DREAM - Montmartre, the point of entry your camera lens, your gorgeous photography,
When I come to your blog, I set aside a time to savory all the delicious photo's and history of each place you share with us, I have my hot chocolate or coffee, and just get lost in this visual world. Savoring it like fine wine, or a wonderful meal not to be rushed but to enjoy.

Merci

Joanny