The lion we
can see in the middle of the Place Denfert-Rochereau is referred to as the “Lion
de Belfort”. There is an original version, in stone, to be found in the city of
Belfort in the east of France. It was created by Bartholdi, even more famous of
course as the creator of the Statue of Liberty (see here and here). The lion was
meant to be a symbol of resistance - the city of Belfort avoided, thanks to a
long resistance, being taken by the Prussians in 1870-71. The resistance was
headed by Colonel Denfert-Rochereau who thus gave his name to this place, where
we find two lodges of the toll barrier called the “Wall of the Farmers General”, on
which I have posted e.g. here, here, here and here and which were in operation until
1860.
Today one of the
lodges houses the entrance to the Catacombs (see post here). The other
one has now just opened as the “Liberation of Paris Museum” It also has the
subtitles “General Leclerc Museum” and “Jean Moulin Museum”, referring to two
heroes of the French Resistance and the Liberation from the Nazi occupancy. This
museum existed on a smaller scale before, but opened here August 27 this year
on the 75th anniversary of the liberation of Paris.
The choice
of the place is quite obvious as we are on top of what, deep underground, (on the
same level as the catacombs) was the Paris headquarters of the “FFI” – “French Forces
of the Interior” - led by Henri Rol-Tanguy (1908-2002), who has given his name to a small part of the avenue which arrives between the two toll lodges. The avenue is the one on which the
liberation troops led by General Leclerc (Philippe Leclerc de Hautecloque, 1902-1947)
arrived in Paris. Due to the recent celebration of the 75th
anniversary of the Liberation, there are still some French flags lining the
avenue, Avenue du Général Leclerc.
We must
remember that the catacombs and the "FFI" premises that we find underground are only a very small part of an enormous tunnel network, originally stone quarries. To
visit, you have to go deep down - there are some very impressive stairs.
Well, I’m
not going to tell here all the details about the museum, the collaboration, the
resistance, the liberation… I guess that some illustrations of what can be
found in the museum tell enough.
We can see
a number of things having belonged to General Leclerec…
… and to
Jean Moulin. We should remember that he was not only a high-ranked civil
servant before the War, he was also a good artist (cartoonist) and during the War
he also opened an art gallery (in Nice) for a while as a “cover”.
3 comments:
Oh que c'est un musée que j’aimerais bien visité, celui là !
This has gone to the top of the next-time list. Thank you, Peter!
Great post, Peter!
Thank you so much.
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