After a meal
(or a drink) at the “Closérie des Lilas”, one of the famous bars / restaurants
along Boulevard de Montparnasse, I suggest that you turn around the corner,
passing the statue of Marshal Ney (by François Rude), and take a walk along Rue
Notre-Dames-des-Champs., (Ney was one of Napoleon’s marshals who was executed
somewhere here in 1815, condemned by the Bourbon monarchy institutions after
the Waterloo defeat. There were rumours that he survived and escaped to the
United States…)
The Rue
Notre-Dame-des-Champs is not very spectacular, but is interesting thanks to all
artists, authors… who have lived here especially since the latter part of the
19th century.
The list of
names could be very long. I will give only a few examples.
Camille
Claudel (1864-1943) lived as a young girl with her family at no. 111 and worked in a
studio at no. 117 during the years 1882-88. 1882 was the year when Auguste Rodin became her teacher.
At no. 86,
Fernand Léger (1881-1955) lived and had his studio for almost 40 years
(1916-55). He was preceded by James
Abbott McNeill Whistler (1834-1903) who worked here in a studio during the years 1891-1902.
(For my Swedish friends I can also mention that this is where Isaac Grünewald
and Sigrid Hjertén lived during their Paris years.)
Behind the
gate of nos. 73-75 lived and worked William Bouguereau (1825-1905) and John
Singer Sargent (1856-1925) had a studio here when he lived in Paris.
Some artists
have also lived at no. 70, but maybe I should give a special mention for the poet Ezra Pound
(1885-1972) who spent the years 1921-24 here, became friends with many,
including Ernest Hemingway (1889-1961), who moved around a lot, but for a while
was a neighbour at no. 115 (building gone).
The street
is long and this time I neglected the lower part, where many of the buildings,
e.g. occupied by Victor Hugo, Auguste Renoir… have disappeared. However, before
leaving Rue Notre-Dame-des Champs, maybe a special mention for no. 109 where
you find one of the most distinguished schools in Paris, “Ecole Alsacienne”, founded
in 1874. The list of famous people who received their education here is long.
Once here,
it’s worth taking a look at a crossing street, Rue de la Grande-Chaumière, much
shorter, but with a lot of history.
Here, at
no. 8 is where Amedeo Modigliani (1884-1920) spent his last years and days,
together with Jeanne Hébuterne (1898-1920), who committed suicide two days
after Amedeo’s death.
They had
met at the “Académie Colarossi”, at no. 10, where there now is a restaurant. Here
you can see others who spent some time here – once again we find Camille
Claudel. (I don’t know if it was here that she met Rodin.)
Since
1905 there has been another art school, at no. 14 – “Académie de la Grande Chaumière”, still
in operation. We can see a number of well-known names, teachers as well as students.
Paul Gauguin
(1848-1903), lived for a while in the same building where later Modigliani and
Hébuterne lived. He was a friend of Alphonse Mucha (1860-1939), who lived and
worked at no. 13, in a small flat above the little restaurant “Crémerie” (now
gone), obviously partly decorated by him (and - again for my Nordic friends –
where August Strindberg, here portrayed by Edvard Munch, was a regular guest.) Here we can see both Mucha and Gauguin photographed
in Mucha’s flat. Both Gauguin and Mucha went to the “Académie Colarossi”.
Some other
buildings on Rue de la Grande-Chaumière include a famous “Sennelier” art-supply
shop. (They opened here only in 1930.) I found no information on the impressive
building at no. 6.
On the
opposite side of the street, you can find a four-star hotel, “Hôtel des
Académies”. It seems that almost all the rooms have Jérôme Mesnager’s (see
previous post) “white men” on the walls.
3 comments:
Je l'ai descendue et remontée vouent la rue Notre Dame des Champs pour aller prendre mon métro pour Franklin-Roosevelt.
C'esy curieux parce que le restaurant "chez Rosalie" rue Campagne Première ou allait manger gratuit contre des toiles, Modigliani, était une crèmerie quand Rosalie l'a achetée.
Excellent publication, Peter, comme d'hab' !
Thanks, Peter! I'm putting this in my "keeper" file for some future trip to Paris! Just my thing!
You are so fortunate to live in a city with such beauty and history. Thank you, Peter - I enjoyed the tour of all these artists and their abodes.
Kathryn
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